The Life of the Party

After two consecutive weeks of blaring cumbia music, public debauchery, and scary clowns, yesterday culminated the 472nd anniversary of my town. Que viva Camaná! Yeah, anniversaries are kind of a big deal down here. Not just “important” ones either, like 100 or 200 years. The 28^th and/or 72^nd year is equally significant and will be celebrated just the same---with a parade, some random explosives, a commemorative Mass, and lots of street drinking.

Initially I was a little skeptical about all this joyful noise and merry making. It seemed overly sentimental, almost trivial, to celebrate the 54^th anniversary of your school or to have a birthday party for your dog. But then, after a few shots of Pisco, I got over myself. I began to realize how awesome it is to go through life either preparing for a fiesta or going to one. In fact, we could probably use some more holidays in the United States. I suggest that, at the very least, we add “Dia del Amigo,” “Dia de la Juventud,” and “Dia de los Santos” into the celebration rotation. Porque no?

Perhaps my initial reaction of jaded cynicism, my reluctance to party hardy, was due to the overzealous capitalism that often accompanies holidays in the U.S. How many stupid Secret Santa gifts have we purchased in our collective lifetime? Seriously. And the Easter Bunny is just damn creepy.

Celebrations down here appear to be more organic, more about enjoying good times with friends and family, eating, dancing, and excessive drinking. I could be down with that. This probably explains why my favorite American holiday is the Fourth of July. Picnics, parades, people setting things on fire-- all the elements needed for a good time. I am not expected to BUY you anything, other than a cheap 6-pack of domestic beer.

Furthermore, the essence of Fiestas is to embrace the present moment in real time, rather than two months prior. Case in point: today is November 11^th and I have yet to see any evidence of an impending Navidad. Absent are the obnoxious plastic decorations, the mall madness, or the ingratiating refrain of “Dominic, the Christmas Donkey.”

Perhaps the great philosopher, Madonna, best captures the essence of ideal, joyful celebration:

                        If we took a holiday

                        took some time to celebrate

                        just one day out of life

                        it would be, it would be so nice.

                        Holiday, Celebration

                        Come together in every nation.

Amen, sister.

¿Que quiero ser?

Or, in plain English, “What do I want to be?” Through the generations, this simple question has prompted contemplative reflection, chain-smoking, and habitual procrastination. As a Youth Development Facilitator, I have been assigned to work with adolescents on vocational orientation and career education, in addition to promoting healthy lifestyles, leadership skills, and community service.

Although my job does not involve hard, physical labor, (umm... is that really a surprise?) the task at hand remains challenging, primarily due to structural differences within the Peruvian educational system: Kids finish high school at age 16. There are no “guidance counselors.” And higher education opportunities are determined mostly by how well you perform on an entrance exam.

If you hope to advance to the next level, a university education, then you better have your shit together. Prior to matriculation, students apply for admission to a specific major or course of study.  “Liberal Arts” and “Undeclared” are not options. Pre-professional education is the norm, which means that by age 16 you should know if you want to be a dentist or a teacher, a lawyer or an accountant.

As I think back on some of my undergraduate electives---Reality and Utopia, Liberation Theology, and Radicalism of the 1960’s---I consider how irrelevant these courses might seem to my Peruvian counterparts. Why would I take a class on political philosophy? Is that going to help me get a job in my chosen discipline? And what the heck is my “chosen discipline” anymore??

Working with students on vocational orientation has, indeed, triggered some restless nights spent thinking about my post- Peace Corps career aspirations. After having the experience of a lifetime, which allows me to develop and implement creative projects, set my own work schedule, and collaborate with respected community leaders, the idea of returning to a regular “job” seems rather unappealing and unfulfilling.           

Peace Corps invites you to think big and to act boldly. During my initial weeks at site, I printed business cards, presented myself to elected officials, and engaged in shameless self-promotion. I know how to market my program in a compact 90-second sound bite and I can do it in a foreign language!

Back home I rarely exercised that level of initiative. I was frustrated by a perceived lack of opportunities for professional growth, but maybe my world seemed small because I made it that way, limited by my own fears and insecurities. As Tolstoy articulated, “I wanted movement and not a calm course of existence. I wanted excitement and danger and the chance to sacrifice myself for my love. I felt in myself a superabundance of energy which found no outlet in our quiet life.”---“Family Happiness”

Sure, I would apply to jobs that were of interest to me, but the idea of creating my own opportunities seemed too challenging, too risky. Now I live in a perpetual state of slight discomfort: cold showers, intestinal distress, wandering llamas. Bring it on.

Although my future remains uncertain, I take comfort in knowing that my 15- and 16- year old Peruvian students are with me on this wild ride. Each day they arrive with important questions, such as “How much does a psychologist earn?,” “Why are you single?,” and, most importantly,  “Do you like Justin Bieber?.” Perhaps we’ll find the answers together, poco a poco.

Ugly American?

Something must be wrong with me. I spent my entire daily living stipend at Dunkin Donuts yesterday. Jockey Plaza, aka “The Mall,” is my new happy place. On more than one occasion, I've contemplated seeing Mr. Popper's Penguins. Even worse, I became strangely excited to discover that Limp Bizkit would be performing in Lima on August 3rd. My close friends and family would recognize immediately that this is a marked departure from my indie-rock/ thrifty chic/ feminist persuasion. Hopefully, they would also slap me (hard!) across the face and bring me back to my senses. Yet these recent ruminations lead me to wonder: AM I AN UGLY AMERICAN??

 

Although I have avoided wearing a baseball hat backwards and sporting a fanny pack, my nostalgic fondness for commercial remnants of American Culture has taken me by surprise. Is this normal? Probably. According to the Peace Corps, I'm not losing my damn mind. Instead, my behavior is symptomatic of “cultural adjustment.” They even went through the trouble of publishing a volunteer handbook (A Few Minor Adjustments) on the subject. Thanks, Peace Corps!

Eloquently stated, “Adjustment involves getting used to all the things that are missing.” Therefore, on the rare occasion I might encounter a McDonald's or a Pizza Hut, I find myself compelled to place an order, simply because it represents a tangible connection to home. And yes, I will buy those marked up M&M's at Plaza Vea, simply because it makes me happy!

When very little is “known and familiar” you start to entertain crazy thoughts, like paying money to see a dumb movie about penguins or talking robots. Why? Because those are the few American movies I can “enjoy” here in my native language, or at least with the assistance of subtitles. Although I am integrating slowly into the Peruvian culture, by speaking Spanish daily, consuming massive quantities of rice, and spending time with my host family, sometimes you just crave a semblance of familiarity. I certainly did not arrive with an innate desire to consume mediocre fast foods, which I mostly avoided in the States, but a sudden loss of familiar routines and faces can be difficult to manage sometimes.

Once again, Peace Corps provides a message of comfort and reassurance: “There is no foolproof formula for successful adjustment. On the contrary, adjustment is a highly personal matter that each of you will approach at your own pace and in your own style.” I guess my “style” comes in the form of jelly donuts and bad movies. But I should probably draw the line at Limp Bizkit.

Talking Shit

Yes, it's true. Peace Corps volunteers are mildly obsessed with talking 'bout shit. Our poop stories provide a constant source of conversation and entertainment--- at lunchtime, on public transit, at birthday parties. We're shameless!

During training we learn how to describe our shit properly, utilizing a 7-point scale. Most of us have already memorized the Bristol Stool Chart forwards and backwards. Please review the attached diagram at your leisure. FYI: '7' is no longer considered a “lucky” number by anyone in Peru 17.

I should also make reference to the phenomenon of “Peru-ing” your pants and the 70% club. Prior to my arrival I was informed that 70% of PC Peru volunteers will shit their pants at least once during their term of service. Dr. Jorge, our esteemed medical officer, insists that this statistic is more like 95%.

Ironically, while composing this blog entry I shit myself. Literally. I had been suffering from some gastro-intestinal issues, but I seemed to be on the road to recovery. I thought I was in the clear, that my darkest hour had passed. Nope. Lesson learned: Never trust a fart!

Although I am somewhat humiliated by my toddler-like regression, at least I'll have an interesting story to share at lunch tomorrow.

Adventures in Transportation

One of the highlights of living in Peru is the exciting variety of transportation options that exist. The most commonly utilized form of public transit is the “combi,” which can best be described as a hybrid of Scooby Doo's Mystery Machine and a defunct bus from the United States, circa 1976. These magical emissaries of mass velocity are often impressive in their décor. The most common decorative themes are Ode to Cannabis, I Love Jesus, and Straight-Up Machismo. The combi drivers definitely take ownership in their vehicle and capitalize on this opportunity to let their personality shine through. For example, the combi I rode on this afternoon featured a giant window decal that said “MASTER.” This individual probably reads a lot of Foucault and Nietzsche in his spare time, when not blasting Reggaeton at obnoxious levels.

Yeah, let's take a moment to talk about combi music, the soundtrack of my Peace Corps life. Each and every driver here gets to explore his deferred DJ dreams on a daily basis. Aside from salsa/reggaton, the 80's also seem to be widely embraced and celebrated in Peru. When was the last time you heard Frankie Goes to Hollywood or Toto on American public transportation??? Exactly.

Part of the beauty of riding the combi is that one never knows what to expect. Much like the Dow Jones, the bus fare and transportation routes are subject to change on a daily basis. I usually respond to sudden demands for a higher price by pretending that I can't speak Spanish. The cobrador (fare collector) eventually moves on and will resume his job of yelling at people to get on and off the combi as quickly as possible. In fact, most of the time I descend from a vehicle still in motion, but that's OK. It makes me feel like an action hero instead of an underweight public servant.

After reading this blog entry I'm sure most of you are ready to book a flight to Peru. Go ahead! I'll save you a seat on the next combi. :)

2 Years, 3 Bags. My Packing list for Peru.

I know everyone must be dying to know what I brought to the Peace Corps, what was left behind, and what I wish I had remembered. Packing for a 27 month adventure is definitely a challenge, but I think I did a pretty damn good job! 

Luggage

Hiking backpack- Kelty Red Cloud Women's 5600

Rolling duffel- REI 48” Wheely Beast

Carry-on bag- The North Face Overhaul 40

Clothing (regular)

12 pair ExOficio High Performance underwear

6-7 bras

Marmot rain jacket

5 skirts

black leggings

3 jeans

3 dresses

1 fleece pullover

1 zip-up fleece vest

base layer (black)

6 collared/button down short-sleeved T-shirts

4 regular T-shirts

4 slacks (gray, dark brown, 2 khaki)

1 long-sleeved button down shirt

2 belts

black/brown socks

Running clothes/gear

5 sports bras

3 track pants

running jacket

4 pairs of shorts

running shoes

running tights

running socks

Garmin GPS watch

regular stopwatch

Glide body lubricant (prevents blisters!)

Toiletries/Hygiene

2 quick-dry towels

2 washclothes

2 Brommers' soap bars

shampoo

leave-in conditioner

texturizing/molding paste

anti-frizz spray

2 Cerave face wash

razor

make-up

scissors

tweezers

Neutrogena sunscreen- 45 and 70 SPF

Tide stain stick

toothbrush

dental floss

the Diva cup

tampons

pantiliners

deodorant

hairbands/headbands

Shoes

Sandals- Teva

Hiking shoes- Timberland

Business casual- Naturalizer black Mary Janes

                          Naturalizer brown flats

White dress sandals

Flip flops

Electronics

Laptop

Digital camera

Memory card(s)

USB flash drive

External hard drive

iPod nano

LED rechargeable flashlight

Miscellaneous

Travel pillow

3 coloring books

2 Crayola markers

2 Crayons

scissors

solar shower

Nalgene water bottle

3 paperback novels

Address book

small purse

Gifts for host families

2 Yankees playing cards

4 NYC magnets

6 mini-Yankees penants

NY state/Hudson Valley postcards

Things I wish I had brought: hand sanitizer, additional long-sleeved shirts, emergency chocolate supply!!

The Price of Peace: $$ and Medical Clearance

Not only is the Peace Corps application process lengthy, it can be damn expensive, too! Listed below is an itemized "bill" of the various costs I encountered during the medical/dental review.

Medical
Visits with my Primary Care Physician (3)--$180
Tetanus booster--$26
Lab work---$1140!?!
Follow-up lab test--$80
Mental health evaluation*---$165
*not required of all applicants... just the really awesome people ;)

Dental
Cleaning/exam--$90
X-rays--$95
Filling--$198

Total = $1,974
Peace Corps reimbursement = $225 ($165 for medical; $60 for dental)
Total cost to Kimberly = $1,749

OK, part of the reason why the costs were sooo high are due to my current lack of health insurance. Yet there were certain tests and evaluations that I doubt *any* insurance company would view as "medically necessary." For example, if you received the Polio vaccine during childhood, why should Blue Cross or United Health Care pay for additional proof of immunity?? (The Peace Corps requires evidence of Polio titers in your blood, to demonstrate the vaccine's efficacy.) It is also unusual to be tested for a G6PD enzyme deficiency if you are asymptomatic, but that was another lab required by the Peace Corps.

Although I recognize the importance of assessing a potential volunteer's health, the medical clearance process was tedious, time-consuming, and, for me, expensive. $80 for a follow-up lab? Yes, because a liver enzyme (AST) was a single point outside the "normal" range. An additional doctor's visit because I was *1* pound "underweight"? Yup!!

My main point in submitting this post, however, was not to whine and complain, but to warn prospective volunteers of the potential costs involved with medical clearance. I had not encountered many entries in the blogosphere related to this subject, and, therefore, some of the medical bills (especially the $1140 for lab work!! WTF?!) came as a surprise.

Afterwards, I learned that Peace Corps applicants can schedule their medical appointments at a Federal health care facility (VA hospital, Indian Health Services, etc.), free of charge, after obtaining a letter of authorization from the Office of Medical Services. My understanding, however, is that a long wait may be involved, and when you are applying to the Peace Corps time is of the essence!!

My advice to PC applicants is to do some comparison shopping at various hospitals/clinics, and to ask ahead of time for a price quote on labs. My desire to get through the process quickly and efficiently really cost me in the long run! And if you happen to be 1-2 pounds underweight, just hit the McDonald's drive-through before visiting your doctor, or wear some heavy boots. Trust me, it will save you a co-pay and the hassle of additional paperwork! :)    

High Performance

Because you were probably curious about the "magical underwear" referenced in my previous post, I present to you the ExOficio Give-n-Go Bikini Brief! I've already ordered 10 pairs.
http://www.exofficio.com/products/details/womens-give-n-go-bikini-brief

Gotta love the product description:
"17 countries. 6 weeks. And one pair of underwear. Okay, maybe two. This underwear is up for the challenge. Engineered with Aegis Microbe Shield and unbelievably quick-drying, ExOfficio Give-N-Go is ready for odor-free, active adventuring."

Flippin sweet!

Bienvenidos!

Welcome to my blog!  After some deliberation and procrastination I have decided to document my Peace Corps journey on the web---mostly because I found the blogs of current and former Peace Corps volunteers to be extremely helpful in surviving the lengthy application process, learning what to expect in the months ahead and how many pairs of underwear to pack. Periodic blog entries will also provide my neurotic mother with tangible evidence that I'm alive. 

Because blogging is completely new to me, I will undoubtedly exploit new features and design options as they become known to me. It will likely annoy you. :) The fonts, background colors, etc. will probably change and evolve several times in the coming weeks. I hope you can survive the journey!

"Al Otro Lado" is Spanish for "to the other side," which captures the essence of my Peace Corps adventure in a single phrase. A month from now I will be traveling to the Southern Hemisphere with 2 checked items of luggage (total weight cannot exceed 80 lbs.!!) and a small carry on-bag. In preparation for this journey I have moved out of my home, sacrificed my vegetarian diet, and re-discovered my natural hair color. I have also learned about the magic of "high performance underwear."

I am both nervous and excited to encounter the challenges before me: eating guinea pig, befriending alpacas, and learning how to wield a machete.

See you on the other side!