Monday, January 2, 2012

The Gift of Giving In

“False cognates are words in one language that are identical or very similar to words in a second language, but whose meanings are different. These are sometimes called ‘false friends’ because they are recognizable in form but undependable in meaning.” (1001 Pitfalls in Spanish, p. 274)

Upon entering a foreign culture we often seek comfort in elements of the dependable and the familiar. But on many occasions, expectations do not align with reality. I can think of several examples with regard to food and, more recently, with holiday celebrations.

Our “false friends” can sometimes lead us down the wrong path, with embarrassing, yet humorous results. For example, if you were to walk into a supermarket and ask for “tuna sin preservativos” you would, in fact, be asking for a “prickly pear without a condom.” Super kinky, right? Then after committing your innocent linguistic error, you might feel compelled to apologize and state that you’re very “embarazada,” which amounts to being pregnant. Watch out for those prickly pears. J

Another thing to beware of is the ketchup. As most of my close friends already know, I love (umm…no, LOVE!) condiments and will always reserve a special place in my heart for Heinz 57.  I used to put that stuff on eggs, burgers, baked potatoes, etc., and in disturbingly large quantities. Although you can certainly find “ketchup” in Peru, a product “recognizable in form,” the content is way different and way bad. Not sure how to describe that shit, other than “sugary tomato goop”?

Pizza, another favorite comfort food, also tends to lead me down a driveway of disappointment. Whenever I spot a new pizzeria in town I will become ridiculously excited, expecting and hoping for the crisp crust, savory tomato sauce, and hot, melted mozzarella of my native New York. Once again, my dreams are dashed--- this time by cardboard crust and the inappropriate use of ham.

With regard to the holidays, it was certainly difficult to accept the advent of Christmas this year, without the crisp, cold New England winter or seasonal sightings of Santa Claus. Initially, I was relieved when people began to deck their halls, sometime between December 10th and 14th. But after a small sampling of the decorative efforts, I was ready to throw every strand of glittery garland into the ocean. By far, the Christmas tree in the Plaza took the prize for most tacky imitation of “American” custom and culture. As you can see in the photo below, this year’s holiday season was brought to you by plastic, paper-mache, and Coca-Cola.



 
However, when you stop looking for customs, culture, and cuisine that are “recognizable in form” you become more open to embracing all that is unique and amazing about where you are, right here and right now. These days, instead of lusting after ketchup, I’ve made Huancaina my new boyfriend. Sure, the pizza sucks but the ceviche is out-of-this-world. And on Christmas Eve, I had the unique pleasure of gathering with my Peruvian family, drinking hot cocoa and waiting for the strike of midnight, at which point we exchanged hugs, placed baby Jesus in the manger, then joined our neighbors in the street for a champagne toast (followed shortly by exploding cherry bombs).

Although the past several months have certainly been marked by growing pains, I believe the greatest indicator of integration occurred on New Year’s Eve. Amid a group of friends, hailing from Cusco, Connecticut, and places in between, I participated in a Peruvian drinking circle and consumed BEER! My close friends and family know that I strongly dislike beer, but after some initial moments of doubt hesitation, I found that the local hops and barley are not too offensive! Either this is a sign of personal growth, or the impending apocalypse. I give up. I give in.

Saturday, November 12, 2011

The Life of the Party


After two consecutive weeks of blaring cumbia music, public debauchery, and scary clowns, yesterday culminated the 472nd anniversary of my town. Que viva Camaná! Yeah, anniversaries are kind of a big deal down here. Not just “important” ones either, like 100 or 200 years. The 28th and/or 72nd year is equally significant and will be celebrated just the same---with a parade, some random explosives, a commemorative Mass, and lots of street drinking.

Initially I was a little skeptical about all this joyful noise and merry making. It seemed overly sentimental, almost trivial, to celebrate the 54th anniversary of your school or to have a birthday party for your dog. But then, after a few shots of Pisco, I got over myself. I began to realize how awesome it is to go through life either preparing for a fiesta or going to one. In fact, we could probably use some more holidays in the United States. I suggest that, at the very least, we add “Dia del Amigo,” “Dia de la Juventud,” and “Dia de los Santos” into the celebration rotation. Porque no?

Perhaps my initial reaction of jaded cynicism, my reluctance to party hardy, was due to the overzealous capitalism that often accompanies holidays in the U.S. How many stupid Secret Santa gifts have we purchased in our collective lifetime? Seriously. And the Easter Bunny is just damn creepy.

Celebrations down here appear to be more organic, more about enjoying good times with friends and family, eating, dancing, and excessive drinking. I could be down with that. This probably explains why my favorite American holiday is the Fourth of July. Picnics, parades, people setting things on fire-- all the elements needed for a good time. I am not expected to BUY you anything, other than a cheap 6-pack of domestic beer.

Furthermore, the essence of Fiestas is to embrace the present moment in real time, rather than two months prior. Case in point: today is November 11th and I have yet to see any evidence of an impending Navidad. Absent are the obnoxious plastic decorations, the mall madness, or the ingratiating refrain of “Dominic, the Christmas Donkey.”

Perhaps the great philosopher, Madonna, best captures the essence of ideal, joyful celebration:

                        If we took a holiday
                        took some time to celebrate
                        just one day out of life
                        it would be, it would be so nice.

                        Holiday, Celebration
                        Come together in every nation.

Amen, sister.


Monday, October 24, 2011

¿Que quiero ser?

Or, in plain English, “What do I want to be?” Through the generations, this simple question has prompted contemplative reflection, chain-smoking, and habitual procrastination. As a Youth Development Facilitator, I have been assigned to work with adolescents on vocational orientation and career education, in addition to promoting healthy lifestyles, leadership skills, and community service.

Although my job does not involve hard, physical labor, (umm... is that really a surprise?) the task at hand remains challenging, primarily due to structural differences within the Peruvian educational system: Kids finish high school at age 16. There are no “guidance counselors.” And higher education opportunities are determined mostly by how well you perform on an entrance exam.

If you hope to advance to the next level, a university education, then you better have your shit together. Prior to matriculation, students apply for admission to a specific major or course of study.  “Liberal Arts” and “Undeclared” are not options. Pre-professional education is the norm, which means that by age 16 you should know if you want to be a dentist or a teacher, a lawyer or an accountant.

As I think back on some of my undergraduate electives---Reality and Utopia, Liberation Theology, and Radicalism of the 1960’s---I consider how irrelevant these courses might seem to my Peruvian counterparts. Why would I take a class on political philosophy? Is that going to help me get a job in my chosen discipline? And what the heck is my “chosen discipline” anymore??

Working with students on vocational orientation has, indeed, triggered some restless nights spent thinking about my post- Peace Corps career aspirations. After having the experience of a lifetime, which allows me to develop and implement creative projects, set my own work schedule, and collaborate with respected community leaders, the idea of returning to a regular “job” seems rather unappealing and unfulfilling.           

Peace Corps invites you to think big and to act boldly. During my initial weeks at site, I printed business cards, presented myself to elected officials, and engaged in shameless self-promotion. I know how to market my program in a compact 90-second sound bite and I can do it in a foreign language!

Back home I rarely exercised that level of initiative. I was frustrated by a perceived lack of opportunities for professional growth, but maybe my world seemed small because I made it that way, limited by my own fears and insecurities. As Tolstoy articulated, “I wanted movement and not a calm course of existence. I wanted excitement and danger and the chance to sacrifice myself for my love. I felt in myself a superabundance of energy which found no outlet in our quiet life.”---“Family Happiness”

Sure, I would apply to jobs that were of interest to me, but the idea of creating my own opportunities seemed too challenging, too risky. Now I live in a perpetual state of slight discomfort: cold showers, intestinal distress, wandering llamas. Bring it on.

Although my future remains uncertain, I take comfort in knowing that my 15- and 16- year old Peruvian students are with me on this wild ride. Each day they arrive with important questions, such as “How much does a psychologist earn?,” “Why are you single?,” and, most importantly,  “Do you like Justin Bieber?.” Perhaps we’ll find the answers together, poco a poco.

Saturday, July 30, 2011

Ugly American?

Something must be wrong with me. I spent my entire daily living stipend at Dunkin Donuts yesterday. Jockey Plaza, aka “The Mall,” is my new happy place. On more than one occasion, I've contemplated seeing Mr. Popper's Penguins. Even worse, I became strangely excited to discover that Limp Bizkit would be performing in Lima on August 3rd. My close friends and family would recognize immediately that this is a marked departure from my indie-rock/ thrifty chic/ feminist persuasion. Hopefully, they would also slap me (hard!) across the face and bring me back to my senses. Yet these recent ruminations lead me to wonder: AM I AN UGLY AMERICAN??


 
Although I have avoided wearing a baseball hat backwards and sporting a fanny pack, my nostalgic fondness for commercial remnants of American Culture has taken me by surprise. Is this normal? Probably. According to the Peace Corps, I'm not losing my damn mind. Instead, my behavior is symptomatic of “cultural adjustment.” They even went through the trouble of publishing a volunteer handbook (A Few Minor Adjustments) on the subject. Thanks, Peace Corps!

Eloquently stated, “Adjustment involves getting used to all the things that are missing.” Therefore, on the rare occasion I might encounter a McDonald's or a Pizza Hut, I find myself compelled to place an order, simply because it represents a tangible connection to home. And yes, I will buy those marked up M&M's at Plaza Vea, simply because it makes me happy!

When very little is “known and familiar” you start to entertain crazy thoughts, like paying money to see a dumb movie about penguins or talking robots. Why? Because those are the few American movies I can “enjoy” here in my native language, or at least with the assistance of subtitles. Although I am integrating slowly into the Peruvian culture, by speaking Spanish daily, consuming massive quantities of rice, and spending time with my host family, sometimes you just crave a semblance of familiarity. I certainly did not arrive with an innate desire to consume mediocre fast foods, which I mostly avoided in the States, but a sudden loss of familiar routines and faces can be difficult to manage sometimes.

Once again, Peace Corps provides a message of comfort and reassurance: “There is no foolproof formula for successful adjustment. On the contrary, adjustment is a highly personal matter that each of you will approach at your own pace and in your own style.” I guess my “style” comes in the form of jelly donuts and bad movies. But I should probably draw the line at Limp Bizkit.







Thursday, July 28, 2011

Talking Shit

Yes, it's true. Peace Corps volunteers are mildly obsessed with talking 'bout shit. Our poop stories provide a constant source of conversation and entertainment--- at lunchtime, on public transit, at birthday parties. We're shameless!

During training we learn how to describe our shit properly, utilizing a 7-point scale. Most of us have already memorized the Bristol Stool Chart forwards and backwards. Please review the attached diagram at your leisure. FYI: '7' is no longer considered a “lucky” number by anyone in Peru 17.



I should also make reference to the phenomenon of “Peru-ing” your pants and the 70% club. Prior to my arrival I was informed that 70% of PC Peru volunteers will shit their pants at least once during their term of service. Dr. Jorge, our esteemed medical officer, insists that this statistic is more like 95%.

Ironically, while composing this blog entry I shit myself. Literally. I had been suffering from some gastro-intestinal issues, but I seemed to be on the road to recovery. I thought I was in the clear, that my darkest hour had passed. Nope. Lesson learned: Never trust a fart!

Although I am somewhat humiliated by my toddler-like regression, at least I'll have an interesting story to share at lunch tomorrow.

Monday, July 11, 2011

Adventures in Transportation

One of the highlights of living in Peru is the exciting variety of transportation options that exist. The most commonly utilized form of public transit is the “combi,” which can best be described as a hybrid of Scooby Doo's Mystery Machine and a defunct bus from the United States, circa 1976. These magical emissaries of mass velocity are often impressive in their décor. The most common decorative themes are Ode to Cannabis, I Love Jesus, and Straight-Up Machismo. The combi drivers definitely take ownership in their vehicle and capitalize on this opportunity to let their personality shine through. For example, the combi I rode on this afternoon featured a giant window decal that said “MASTER.” This individual probably reads a lot of Foucault and Nietzsche in his spare time, when not blasting Reggaeton at obnoxious levels.

Yeah, let's take a moment to talk about combi music, the soundtrack of my Peace Corps life. Each and every driver here gets to explore his deferred DJ dreams on a daily basis. Aside from salsa/reggaton, the 80's also seem to be widely embraced and celebrated in Peru. When was the last time you heard Frankie Goes to Hollywood or Toto on American public transportation??? Exactly.

Part of the beauty of riding the combi is that one never knows what to expect. Much like the Dow Jones, the bus fare and transportation routes are subject to change on a daily basis. I usually respond to sudden demands for a higher price by pretending that I can't speak Spanish. The cobrador (fare collector) eventually moves on and will resume his job of yelling at people to get on and off the combi as quickly as possible. In fact, most of the time I descend from a vehicle still in motion, but that's OK. It makes me feel like an action hero instead of an underweight public servant.

After reading this blog entry I'm sure most of you are ready to book a flight to Peru. Go ahead! I'll save you a seat on the next combi. :)











Sunday, July 10, 2011

2 Years, 3 Bags. My Packing list for Peru.

I know everyone must be dying to know what I brought to the Peace Corps, what was left behind, and what I wish I had remembered. Packing for a 27 month adventure is definitely a challenge, but I think I did a pretty damn good job! 

Luggage
Hiking backpack- Kelty Red Cloud Women's 5600
Rolling duffel- REI 48” Wheely Beast
Carry-on bag- The North Face Overhaul 40

Clothing (regular)
12 pair ExOficio High Performance underwear
6-7 bras
Marmot rain jacket
5 skirts
black leggings
3 jeans
3 dresses
1 fleece pullover
1 zip-up fleece vest
base layer (black)
6 collared/button down short-sleeved T-shirts
4 regular T-shirts
4 slacks (gray, dark brown, 2 khaki)
1 long-sleeved button down shirt
2 belts
black/brown socks

Running clothes/gear
5 sports bras
3 track pants
running jacket
4 pairs of shorts
running shoes
running tights
running socks
Garmin GPS watch
regular stopwatch
Glide body lubricant (prevents blisters!)

Toiletries/Hygiene
2 quick-dry towels
2 washclothes
2 Brommers' soap bars
shampoo
leave-in conditioner
texturizing/molding paste
anti-frizz spray
2 Cerave face wash
razor
make-up
scissors
tweezers
Neutrogena sunscreen- 45 and 70 SPF
Tide stain stick
toothbrush
dental floss
the Diva cup
tampons
pantiliners
deodorant
hairbands/headbands

Shoes
Sandals- Teva
Hiking shoes- Timberland
Business casual- Naturalizer black Mary Janes
                          Naturalizer brown flats
White dress sandals
Flip flops

Electronics
Laptop
Digital camera
Memory card(s)
USB flash drive
External hard drive
iPod nano
LED rechargeable flashlight

Miscellaneous
Travel pillow
3 coloring books
2 Crayola markers
2 Crayons
scissors
solar shower
Nalgene water bottle
3 paperback novels
Address book
small purse

Gifts for host families
2 Yankees playing cards
4 NYC magnets
6 mini-Yankees penants
NY state/Hudson Valley postcards

Things I wish I had brought: hand sanitizer, additional long-sleeved shirts, emergency chocolate supply!!